Brittany and Beyond!

Brittany - and all the places we visited last week!

My heart is overflowing with joy!  I cannot begin to express how amazing the past week has been for our family.  Not only did we have time just the four of us exploring Brittany, but we also made lifelong friends in the owners of our apartment.  

Before I get to telling you about our time with Yann, Hortence, Ella, and Paul, let me begin by telling you about Brittany.  We were blown away by how beautiful the northwest coast of Brittany was.  We were not prepared for the breathtaking views, delicious food, and generous hospitality everywhere we went.  We covered a lot in just four days.  

We started in Rennes.  We took a late train out of Paris on Monday evening to Rennes.  

Sadly Jeff missed this train so he had to get up really early the next day to meet us in Rennes by 8:30 a.m.

On Tuesday morning, we quickly toured the Cathedral St. Pierre in Rennes before we picked up a rental car and headed out of town.  We drove to Vannes for lunch, touring the walled city and eating along the marina.  We then got back in the car and headed to Carnac to see some megaliths and dolmans.  This area has prehistoric rocks that are older than Stonehenge.  

Cathedral St. Piere in Rennes!

Visiting Vannes!

Entering the walled city of Vannes!

On to the megaliths in Carnac.

A dolman.

We then visited a small town called Quiberon where we got to finally put our feet in ocean and watch people parasailing in the Atlantic.   That night we ate in an old fort, in Concarneau, at the most delicious restaurant called Le Jardin D’Angelina.  We were most delighted that they had a Paris Metro map from the 1940s, which we studied endlessly, as well as the most engaging French man, who was visiting Concarneau to teach sailing.  We spent our second night in Quimper.

Will could stare at the ocean for ever.  Here he is in Quiberon.

I adore this picture!  I will be framing it when I get home.

One of the many stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean!

Catching some wind!

Finally, a place to get their feet wet!

The fort of Concarneau where we had dinner!

A few views of the fort to enjoy!

Inside the fort walls.

The 1940s Metro map that captured our attention!

Most interesting thing we saw:  The farmers in the area were on strike.  They way they strike is to park their tractors on the highway.  The tractors are just enough apart so cars have to slow down to about 5 km per hour to get around them.  As you pass by, the farmers have pamphlets for you to pick up explaining why they are on strike.  The police are there, smoking and checking their phones to make sure no one gets hurt.  

Farmers on strike!

After spending the night in Quimper, we then headed out to Pont de Raz, to visit the most western point of France.  This was spectacular!  We parked our car and hiked out about 1.5 kilometers to the rocky cliffs perched out in the Atlantic Ocean.  While we felt closer to the United States at that moment, we all agreed, we weren’t quite ready to come home yet.  We are only 3 months in and can’t imagine leaving anytime soon.  

Pont de Raz!

Somewhere out there is the Western Hemisphere!

About 5,000 kilometers away is the United States!

Hello everyone!

Happy Girl!

This statue faces the ocean, in honor of all who have lost their lives on this rocky coast.  I could not take a photo of it from the front because just behind this statue is a military base, with strong warnings that under no circumstance are pictures to be taken.

As with many places along the coast, it was occupied by the Germans during World War II.

After Pont de Raz, we headed to Brest for two reasons.  One was to mark it off on our map.  The second was to see a place that is on the board of one of our favorite games – Ticket to Ride!  We spent about 90 minutes in Brest before heading back in the car towards St. Malo. 

On to Brest!

Brest again!

The Maritime Museum and military base of Brest.

Fun fact:  Did you know that during World War I most United States troops went through Brest on their way to the front lines?  And that most of Brest was destroyed after the Normandy invasion? 

On the way to St. Malo we visited a famous parish close, Saint-Thegonnec.  Instead of trying to explain what that is, I will rely on Wikipedia:

Parish closes are defined by a continuous containing wall, completely surrounding the churchyard, of which the greater area is the parish cemetery.  There are often stiles but the only easy entrance is through a ceremonial arch, often elaborately detailed with pinnacles and carving.  Within the gateway, an open, paved assembly area surrounds the calvary or crucifix.

Essentially it includes the church and all the area around it.  They are usually pretty elaborate because as the town made money, people would give the money to the church and the church would in-turn adorn it with even more sculptures and art.  The better the town was doing, the bigger and better the parish close.  This soon became a way for towns to stand out from one another.   

While driving we pulled over to visit this beautiful church in Comfort.

It had a bell inside that you could ring.  

It had it's own calvary at the entrance!

The parish close of Saint Thegonnec.

A beautiful row of hedges surrounds the church.

Inside the church.

From there we headed to St. Malo.  The old town of St. Malo is surrounded by a wall, which dates back from the 12th century.  This city was also bombed heavily during WWII, but unlike Brest that rebuilt itself quickly, in a utilitarian fashion, St. Malo painstakingly restored itself.  We were lucky enough to get a hotel within the old city walls.  

The tides go out pretty far in St. Malo so you are able to walk out to several islands around the city.  At this point, because the weather was so beautiful, because we love beaches, and just because we could, we spent the next two hours playing on the beach.  Before leaving town we made sure to check out Fort de la Cite d'Alet, which was a base used by the Germans during World War II.  There were bunkers for Will to explore.  

One of the entrances to the old town of St. Malo.

Will loves a statue he can imitate!

With the tide out, we crossed to one of the small islands.  This is looking back at the old city of St. Malo.

A beautiful memorial on the island.

Fun in the sand!

View from Fort de la Cite d'Alet looking back at St. Malo.

This was an important base for the Germans.  There were many bunkers here.

One final look at St. Malo.

Best memory of St. Malo:  Aside from playing on the beach, the best memory from St. Malo was the amazing dinner we had at Cafe de L'Ouest.  We tried fish soup and mussels.  Afterwards, there was a light shining on the tower where the kids and Jeff took turns dancing in its light.

One of the best meals I have ever had, and not because of the food, but because of the company!

Mussels

Dancing in the light of the fort!

Two years ago, when Jeff and I got really serious about living in France for a year, we visited Mont Saint Michel.  While we were touring the Abby, we talked about one day bringing our kids here and how we would try and spend the night on the island.  Well, on Thursday, that day came.  

In 708 a bishop built a chapel upon Mont Saint Michel, following a vision he had of the Archangel Michel, perched on a dragon.  A few hundreds year later, it was turned over to the Benedictines.  From then on it was a place of learning, as well as a fort.  During the Middle Ages, people made pilgrimages here.  What was unique about the island, is that it was only accessible when the tide was out.  When the tide was in, you had to either go by boat, or wait a few hours.  

When you visit Mont Saint Michel today, you park about 1.5 kilometers away from the island.  A shuttle bus takes you a kilometer closer to the island on a causeway.  You then disembark and walk the rest of the way in.  We were lucky enough to get a hotel room on the island.  We wound our way UP the Grande Rue, the main "street" inside the island, to our room.  We dropped our bags and quickly headed out to the ramparts to watch the sunset.  

Walking towards Mont Saint Michel.

A dream come true!

The tide is out!

One of the many beautiful views!

This is how they used to get goods up to the Abbey. 

Sunset

Just to remember where we slept!

Fair warning:  There are warnings all around not to venture into the "sand" surrounding Mont Saint Michel, without a guide.  it is more like quicksand and mud, than sand.  So when one adult and two kids decide not to heed that warning, that one adult is left endlessly scrubbing shoes in a hotel bathroom.  Let's just say I was the first in bed that night. 

That night we slept with the windows open, and their shoes hanging from the window sill, in complete silence.  I have never been in a quieter place in my entire life.  We woke up the next morning to birds singing, cats fighting, and bobcats bringing goods onto the island.  We got breakfast and then headed up to the Abbey for an impressive tour. 

View from our room on Mont Saint Michel.

The Abbey!

La Merveille, the refectory, within the Abbey.

Finally it was time to head off the island and back to the car.  We left Mont Saint Michel, grabbed lunch in Dinan, and headed to La Baule to meet the owners of our apartment!

Just to document that we were in Dinan!

Just a bit of brief history:  When Jeff and I were just a few weeks out from leaving for Paris, the apartment we were going to rent fell through.  Our relocation specialist scrambled and came upon a new listing.  It turned out to be the place we are living.  The family living there, the Gontiers, had just decided to move out of Paris to their second home in the beach town of La Baule.  They were anxious about their own move and wanted to find just the right family for their Paris apartment.  We were that desperate family looking for the right place to live.  

Fast forward three months and we couldn't have asked for better landlords.  I don't even like using the term landlords anymore, because they have become fast friends.  They have been tremendous in all they have done for us.  When we first walked into our apartment, Hortence had everything perfectly arranged, with milk and butter in the refrigerator, flowers on the table, and new linens in every room.  She truly made this apartment a comfortable home for us.  

So when an invite came, a few weeks ago, to visit them in La Baule, we jumped on it.  They have a daughter a few years younger than Edy, named Ella, and a son a few years younger than Will, named Paul.  From the moment we arrived in La Baule, to the moment we left, our hearts were full of love and appreciation for each other.  

Despite the fact that our kids don't speak the same language, they played beautifully!  It was great to see them each try words from the other person's language.  Will and Paul played continuously outside in their yard and on the beach.  Edy and Ella drew and shared their favorite music with each other.  Yann, Hortence, Jeff, and I talked and talked and talked.  We have so much in common.  Here were two families that had both made drastic moves at the same time, all in hopes of having a better life with their family.  The best part?  It was all taking place in the Gontiers' two homes.  Upon leaving, it wasn't good-bye, but see you again soon.  Enjoy the pictures below!

Hortence and me

Good morning Edy and Ella!

Paul, Will, and Yann biked to the bakery for our breakfast!

Hortence, Edy, and Ella setting the table.

Boys vs. girls is the same in every culture!

Headed into town to explore the Saturday market.

Paul introduced Edy and Will to his favorite candy!

At the market, it is customary to stop for a glass of wine and some fresh oysters.  This is BEFORE your lunch.

Edy trying her first oyster.

Will trying his first oyster and clearly enjoying it.

For the scavenger hunt, there was a boys team and a girls team!

Just because...

Gontier Family and McLaughlin family

Love!

Always willing to pose for a picture!

Yann, Ella, Hortence, and Paul

Before dinner, we hit the beach again.  Here are Edy and Ella.

Will!

We ate dinner at a delicious Creperie!

Breakfast on our last morning!

Edy has always wanted to ride in a Mini!  Hortence gave her that chance!

The kids desperately wanted to play at the beach one more time before we left.
It was too cold for the adults.  We sat inside a cafe, along the beach having, tea and coffee.  

Edy's Minion

Will buried!

Most of the crew!

These two!

Believe it or not, Edy took in a quick swim in the Atlantic.  

Warming up before we left!

Of all the words I have written above, none of them accurately capture the magnitude of what this trip meant to Jeff and me.  We have recently watched a friend go through a tragic loss back home, so it was not lost on us during our week in Brittany, how fragile and fleeting life can be.  We took the time to enjoy EVERY moment of our time together as a family.  We found ourselves grabbing each others' hands and looking in each others' eyes, with no words on our lips, just grateful for this year abroad together.  

This is why I don't want to come home.  I don't want it to end.

Jusqu'a la prochain fois

Betsy